Surfing

For some strange reason, earlier on today, I was riding in the car with a few of my friends on the way to a popular Mexican food place in the area.  I can’t remember what the greater topic of conversation was, but somehow, I segued into my…love? of surfing.  Now, when I say love, I’m not saying that in the typical sense that one might speak of loving an activity in.  I don’t get a huge smile on my face when I’m doing it, I haven’t been surfing for years, I don’t own a million surfboards.  In fact…I’ve never actually surfed at all.  So really, I guess I would have to say that I’m more in love with the idea of surfing.  I guess this really extends back to my days of living in Florida as a youngster.  (Haha, youngster.)  I would see the ocean everyday, and see and think about surfing.  And I of course saw the classic surfing film The Endless Summer at a very young age!  But still without actually knowing anyone on a deep personal level who was a surfer themselves, and could really show me the ropes…I was obstructed.  So, ever since, I’ve been a fan.  I’ve read surfing books, frequently purchased surfing magazines, watched on television, and just generally stayed connected.  As you may notice, earlier in this post, I referred to surfing as an activity.  That’s because I don’t really know what to call it.  A lifestyle?  A sport?  While it does fit the dictionary definition of such, I just feel like it is much more than that.  Maybe the ultimate sport.  Art.  Using and working with earth’s most abundant material, water, to do and create something amazing and beautiful.  I haven’t really come across the right opportunity quite yet, but I know that the stars will align, and I’ll take my place in the lexicon of surfers that grace the world’s waves day in and day out.  I’m not saying that I’ll become a great, championship wave rider or anything.  If I wanted that to happen, I should have began cruising swells of all sizes over a decade ago.  But that’s one thing I admire so much about surfing, at least from my outsider perspective…it seems as if one can begin at any stage in life, and keep going well into the autumn of one’s life.  I’ve seen very young and very old surfers, canine surfers, coupled surfers, and even amputated and paralyzed surfers.  If you have already experienced this most sublime of pursuits, then leave a comment, and add your thoughts.  If not, then look into surfing a little bit.  I’m sure you’ll fall in love too.  And if not, then I KNOW you’ll at least dig the photography!  Hopefully I’ll see you all out on the waves one day!

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This entry was posted in art, Rashan's World, sports and tagged , , . Bookmark the permalink.

1 Response to Surfing

  1. davidvenibella says:

    Surfing is like meditating, your mind is blank when your riding a wave. Its intense and when its solid it gets my blood pumping. Its like a drug once you start you cant stop.

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